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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.